Buying a watch can be a very personal thing. Some collectors already have a fairly good idea of what they like and don’t like, what case sizes suit them the best, which type of metal finishes they prefer, and so on. It can seem overwhelming if you’re shopping for someone who knows more about watches than you do.
The good news, though, is that you don’t have to learn everything there is to know about watches overnight or understand every type of movement, complication, or brand on the market right now to choose a thoughtful gift. You just need to know a few things about the person you’re shopping for first.
We'll walk you through what to consider in the guide below.
Start With Watch Type
Most watches fall into two broad categories: dress watches and sport or tool watches. From there, each has several different styles to suit different collectors and their watch tastes. We’ll break down some of the most common ones below.
It’s important to note that wearing a dive watch for its rugged design, for example, doesn’t mean someone can’t also enjoy a classic dress watch to round out their collection. It all comes down to personal taste.
Tool/Sports Watches
Often have substantial water resistance, rotatable bezels, and easy-to-read dials. They’re a great fit for someone who likes practical watches they can throw on and wear anywhere.
Designed for tracking more than one time zone at once, usually with an additional GMT hand and a 24-hour scale. Ideal for frequent travelers or someone who likes the look of a GMT watch.
Often among the most straightforward tool watches, usually with legible, easy-to-read dials and minimal complications. Perfect for everyday wear without a lot of unnecessary extras.
Dress Watches/Casual Watches
Generally, more refined than a tool watch, often with simple dials, practical, everyday complications like date displays or annual calendars, slimmer cases, and dressier design elements like gold bezels or hour markers. They work especially well for formal occasions, although a lot of dress watches out there are also just as suitable for everyday wear.
Not usually as flashy as dress watches. Versatile enough for the office, weekends, and everything else in between.
Think About How They'll Actually Wear Their Watch
Let’s say the person you’re shopping for needs a new watch for work. Something slim that fits comfortably under a shirt cuff might be an ideal fit for them. Alternatively, if they’re looking for a new weekender, they might appreciate something more rugged and water-resistant, like a dive watch.
Of course, that brings us back to our previous point: a purpose-built watch, like a GMT or a dive watch, doesn’t need to be used for its intended purpose, either. Someone doesn’t have to travel often or scuba dive to enjoy a GMT watch or a dive watch. The point here is that how they plan to wear their watch is still worth considering, even if they don’t necessarily need all its features.
The Formex Field Automatic, for example, is a great wear-it-anywhere watch. It's slim, at just over 10mm thick, and features a lightweight titanium case and a Swiss-made Sellita movement.
Pay Attention to the Metals They Already Wear
Stainless steel watches have dominated the watch industry in the past few years. However, two-tone, precious-metal, and other metals like titanium, ceramic, and PVD-plated steel are also top choices among collectors, each with its own appeal.
Some collectors are very particular about the type of metal they wear. Someone who tends to wear rugged stainless steel sports watches, for example, might not be interested in a flashy gold dress watch unless they’ve expressed interest in adding something different to their collection. Our best advice is to pay attention to the watches and jewelry they already wear. Do they prefer silver or gold tones? Brushed or polished finishes? Vibrant, colorful watches? It can tell you a lot about their personal taste.
Why Case Size Matters
Watches are measured in millimeters, usually between 34mm and 44mm in diameter for most men’s watches. However, that number alone doesn’t tell the whole story. The lug-to-lug measurement, case thickness, and even case shape can affect how a watch wears on the wrist, especially if someone has a smaller wrist or prefers smaller watches.
If possible, we recommend finding out the recipient’s wrist measurement before buying a watch for them. Or, even better, take note of the size of the watch they already own or wear often.
Below are a few metrics worth paying attention to:
- Case Diameter: The most common watch measurement is diameter. It measures the width of the watch, often excluding the crown.
- Lug-to-Lug: For most watches, the distance from the tip of the lugs on the top of the watch to the tip of the lugs at the bottom. Lugs are where the bracelet or strap attaches to the case, so this measurement indicates how far the watch extends across the wrist and whether it will overhang.
- Case Thickness: A thick watch can feel bulky, even if the case is small. Watches measuring 10mm or less are usually considered thin, while watches around 15mm are much thicker.
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Case Shape: Square, tonneau, rectangular, and other shaped watches fit differently than traditional round watches, even when their measurements are similar.
The Maen Manhattan 37 is an example of a uniquely shaped watch. It wears a bit larger than its 37mm case size would suggest.
Quartz vs. Mechanical
Movements, also called “calibers,” are what power a watch. They generally fall into two categories: quartz or mechanical. In a nutshell, most quartz movements use a battery for power, while mechanical movements rely on the energy stored in a wound mainspring.
From there, mechanical movements can either be manual or automatic. Manual movements need to be wound by hand, while automatic movements feature an additional component called a “rotor” that moves with the wearer’s wrist, automatically winding the mainspring.
Quartz movements are generally more accurate, affordable, and require less maintenance, although most quartz-powered watches will eventually need a battery replacement. Mechanical movements, on the other hand, appeal to collectors who appreciate traditional watchmaking and, in the case of manual movements, the ritual of regularly winding a watch. Mechanical movements don’t use batteries, but they do require periodic servicing to keep them running properly.
Bracelet vs. Strap
What about the bracelet or strap?
It’s a feature someone newer to watch-buying might not immediately consider, but one that can dramatically change the overall look of a watch. Often, a watch comes on either a metal bracelet to match the case or a strap made of leather, fabric, rubber, or another material. Metal bracelets are durable and versatile, although they may need to be sized to fit the wrist properly. Rubber and fabric straps, on the other hand, are generally lightweight and comfortable.
Some watches are available with either a metal bracelet or a strap. If budget allows, consider buying the bracelet version. The recipient can always purchase compatible straps later to suit their style, while buying the original bracelet separately can be considerably more expensive.
It's worth noting here that not every watch has interchangeable straps. Watches with integrated bracelets, where the bracelet connects directly to the case rather than traditional lugs, for example, often have fewer aftermarket strap options.
The Best Watch Gift is One They'll Enjoy Wearing
There’s a lot of pressure to get every detail right when buying a watch as a gift. We know many collectors who would be thrilled to receive a watch, regardless of style or size. However, we also understand that some enthusiasts have very particular preferences, including many of the factors covered in this guide.
As we mentioned earlier, you don’t need to be an expert to make a thoughtful choice. Sometimes all it takes is paying attention to someone’s personal style, lifestyle, and current collection. Ultimately, the best watch gift isn’t the most expensive or complicated on the market. Rather, it's one that feels right for the person receiving it.
